After the carnage that occured to my fingers trying La Coccinelle I was ready for 2 days of rest, but that plan changed when I was faced with incredibly good conditions. I couldn’t pass up the opportunity so decided I should try something hard with slopers on it. Two things sprang to mind; Karma or Kheops. Both started with a K, so does my name, and K is the 11th letter of the alphabet, which is the same number as the day of this blog post. Surely this wasn’t simply coincidence, and I was fated for something so incredible that no man would believe me (but that’s what HD footage is for isn’t it?). It turns out this was all a fantasy. I made a choice and went to Karma in the late afternoon. Warming up everything felt greasy which was a real surprise, but I kept on going. I did le Mur Cordier, 7A using a stupid and very difficult sequence, but I guess that only served to warm me up more thoroughly. However, much later, that mistake led me to cogitate about something kind of revealing.

I went over to Karma and there were a couple of French gentleman trying it. I manned up to have a go and first go wasn’t a total disaster which was good. A couple more French gents came round the corner and joined the party. It was quite a group at one point, with about 15 people watching and only 2 or 3 trying. Anyway, among the newcomers was one Olivier Lebreton. After telling the other French guy how to do it, then brushing all the holds, I guess he couldn’t hold back any longer. He put his shoes on, walked up to it, and C-R-U-S-H-E-D it. I was very impressed, not just that he did it 1st go, but how he climbed it. His body positions were totally different to everyone else. It actually taught me a lot about what I should be doing on it. I had some more goes and was doing better and better. It’s hard to see the hold you have to bump to, so it’s somewhat of a blind slap. However, I was feeling pretty good, and was actually able to hold on to nothing below the small dish/crimp/chip that you want. A few goes I got my hand on to the crimp/dish thing but didn’t have it well enough to get my heel on. I was boosted on and tried the next move with the heel in. It only served to confirm that the bump move is by far the hardest for me. Karma is such a great problem and I can’t wait to get on it again (monday morning!). I think there are a few problems that you have to do to become a font beast, and Karma is definitely one of them. Unfortunately, I think it isn’t going to be the most difficult of the group… But I have time, psyche, and persistence on my side.

Walking down from Karma in the dark the moon was so bright that it was casting a strong shadow on the ground. It was quite special actually. I walked down with the moon on my back and the next time I go it will be with the sun rising on my face. Great days.