One week down, another great day to report. I’m just loving every day at the moment. I wake up to blue skies and cruise to amazing crags to climb amazing problems. Today, Neil and I headed out to find Coup De Patte, 7C/+. I saw the video of it last night and decided I had to go out to get on it. I think Coup de Patte means “leg flick” or something like that, which makes sense when you watch the video! It looked like an outdoor (and mirrored) version of Pego at the school, so I thought it should be fairly steady. The walk in was a bit of an epic because the directions weren’t rather vague, but when we did find it we were impressed. Unfortunately we couldn’t find anything else so the warm up circuit was restricted to doing pull ups on the finishing holds. The blood was already pumping from the walk so it wasn’t too bad, but far from ideal. It took 2 goes to figure out exactly where to grab and which part of the foothold to use, then another couple of goes to actually do it. I think it’s definitely a great problem, and deserves more attention. That probably won’t happen since it’s rather isolated and a 15 minute walk in, which doesn’t sound much for most folk, but here you have 5 star areas less than 1 minute from the car. I’ve got video footage, but I’ll save that for a long video of the forest that I’m planning on compiling.

Also worth mentioning is that Coup de Patte is located deep within Boar Nation the likes of which my dear readers will probably be unfamiliar with. I must have seen 50 boar nests today, with plenty of fresh foraging, warm shits, and underground caverns where they no doubt train with military equipment. I had the fear at some points and so did Neil, but the only difference was that he had a hunting knife in hand. I predict that if he does ever see a boar with that in his hand he’ll either drop it or stab himself. Perhaps on a rest day I shall go and sit in a tree to spy on Boars. You know what they say, keep your allies close, but your enemies closer.

Today’s boulder problem highlighted something that I mentioned yesterday, the process of figuring out boulder problems. Sometimes it’s easy to see what you do, and when this is the case the problems tends to be called basic. Then you have problems that are intensely complicated, with many footholds to choose from, and hand sequences that aren’t obvious. These tend to be called technical. I love both styles, but I think there is a 3rd style which is something in between. Problems where the moves tend to be fairly basic, but positions of things like hips, shoulders, legs, all make a difference to the move, and change impossible to possible. I love subtle moves like this, where a few cm’s difference in hip position make a move possible. I don’t love going to a boulder problem and having to figure out which holds are in, which aren’t, which footholds you use, which you don’t. I would much rather be told the basics like it’s these holds and that’s all you’ve got to work with. From there I’m happy. I think people underestimate the subtleties associated with climbing hard problems on steep walls. I also think I like to test my climbing ability, not necessarily my ability to figure out which holds to use. Perhaps that’s why I’ve never been into FA’s and I prefer to see a video to get beta and then go out and CRUSH!

I think I’ll have to rest for a day or maybe even two which is a bummer. I’m psyched to do so much, and I know that in the next two months I will. Until the next…