I had two rest days with the intention of having good skin today so I could go and crush Jack’s Broken Heart. My only concern was the state of my shoulders, as they are constantly aching and even pouring the water out of kettle is painful. But it’s a pain that’s not at all magnified from climbing. I’m sitting here typing this after a session on the rocks and my shoulders feel no worse for it. I have a strange suspicion that it might be the bed I’m sleeping on, as this has made a difference in the past. Anyway, I went to the rocks with the intention of climbing if I felt alright. After a bit of warming up on Bruno Block (where Neil crushed Supernova) we went up to Jack’s Broken Heart. I had a couple of goes but fell at the usual place when my heel popped off, but then my fourth go was more successful and I was through the crux move and on the way to the top… until my foot popped and I dabbed the boulder underneath it. I continued for another couple of moves, but I knew the dab was a bit sketchy, so I just dropped off. Unfortunately, my skin had had enough by that point! I pulled on one more time to do the top out but I was finished by then. My skin was screaming. Not too bad a session, I managed 4/5 goes! I think this is why it takes me more than one session to get things done, even though in reality the total go count is rather small. But this is an area that needs improvement. Being able to climb well and also very quickly is something that I don’t do, because I don’t place enough importance on it. I think I will start thinking about it more though, and concentrating on getting things done quickly and efficiently. It’s a waste of time spending multiple days on something that I could have done in 1 session if I’d climbed more efficiently or moved better. I’ll definitely work on it.

I have decided not to return to Martigny because shoulders are one of the things that need to be very strong for Radja. I’m fairly disappointed about this but this is the way the cookie crumbles. I’m going to try and return in September for 10-14 days with the hope of getting it done, but we’ll see how that pans out. I’ve got to get my head down in the books for my exams in October so if I don’t manage to come back in September it will have to wait until October 14th! The most important thing is that I remain motivated, focused, and dedicated to getting it done. I don’t want to relinquish this goal even though it’s a fairly lofty one for my climbing so far. I’ll be leaving Magic wood in a few days, so I’m going to finish off Jack’s Broken Heart then try to have a quick tick session on some other things along with getting a bit more footage from Magic Wood to put in the archive. Sunday I’m going riding in a crazy looking place in font, so I’ll hopefully hang on to the bars long enough to get some funny footage which I’ll post up next week when I’m back in the UK.