Another glorious day in the forest, if a little warm. Spent the morning messing about trying to find some lost keys (which are still lost) but eventually hit the road and went to Franchard Cuisiniere with the team GB boys (Tom, Dan, Ned). I went for a bit of an adventure trying to find a new 8A called God Save my Finger, opened by Oliver Lebreton. I’d read that it was supposed to be great, and had high hopes, but after a bit of a slog due to bad directions, I found it and was a bit disappointed. At first I couldn’t believe that could be it, but all the pieces fit the jigsaw. It looks like a hard move off a sharp little bit of quartz. I hate pulling on sharp holds at the best of times, but this thing really didn’t inspire me. Perhaps the climbing is great and it will redeem itself, but I don’t think I’ll ever find out. Not whilst I have a ticklist that’s a page long full of 5 star problems.

Neil was trying a dyno called la deferlante, 7A+, next to Haute Tension, and even though I was supposed to resting during the day I couldn’t resist a go. I put on his old shoes which felt bigger than my trainers, and despatched it second go. I thought I was going to fall off actually when I hit the top, but somehow my body must have remained 1 degree short of ripping off. Lucky physics. Only last night I was thinking that I should try more dyno’s because having that element of timing between hands and feet will obviously become useful in a more restrained sense on something hard one day. Perhaps that’s why I decided to try it. Glad I didn’t have too many goes as it was fairly sharp.

Ned and Tom were plugging away on Karma but not getting very far. Probably due to it being rather warm and also a bit hard. Dan was psyched for a go on Miséricorde, 7C+, and once they were done on Karma the assault began. It took a few goes to find the beta for the first couple of months, and then Dan fell quite high due to a rush of blood I guess. Anyway, next go he crushed it into oblivion, with a stylish swing on the final jug.


Tom made good progress getting about halfway but blew the move up to the high right crimp. Ned let himself down (along with myself). Fun time at Cuisiniere was over and we zoomed off to Les Mammouths.

Conditions were still a bit warm but cooling all the time, so we arrived at the UBIK block to try UBIK assis. Dan was psyched to try the stand so we warmed up with a quick ascent of the 7B at the back, Osiris. It turns out that it is actually very easy if you finish by going up and left from the high crimp, instead of matching it and moving rightwards. We all crushed it, apart from Ned (who let himself down again), and moved on to UBIK. I explained the 2 methods to Dan (who admitted to having checked it all out on already!) and he had a few goes with the guppy method but fell slapping for the crimp. Then he had a few goes using the punch method and BOOM! He crushed it within a few goes. I was screaming beta out and he just kept hanging on, making it look rather casual! I wanted to make sure I could do all the moves on the sit start so I could try the link while I’m here. It turns out the assis moves are fairly easy bar the last, where your left hand is in the stand start undercut and you have to move your right hand to the slopey crimp dish (a lovely hold!). I climbed it from the sit to that point, but I was struggling to find a good foot sequence. It’s definitely one that I could do, but I think it would take work because the start moves just tire you out that little bit. It’s one I’ll go back to try though, because 8B in the forest is like coming home to a sea of virgins, kilo’s of cocaine, and r-kelly singing live.

Tomorrow will be a rest day I think, so until Day 4.