73 is the largest two-digit Unholey prime: such primes do not have holes in their digits.

Success always comes at a price. In fact, everything has it’s price and it’s always worth remembering that. It’s not always obvious what price you pay for the choices you make, but, as the saying goes “hindsight is 20/20″.

I spent all day today trying to do stats work, but also faffing about with computer stuff. The reason I have so much random (rather, apparently random) knowledge, is because I spend so much time reading about crap on the internet. That’s what I did today, I learned more random knowledge, from kexts to hex editing to jpeg storage algorithms. But there’s only so much you can take, and once the rain stopped to reveal a determined sun things were looking up. I stuffed myself at dinner, which is far too frequent an occurrence, but was determined to go out and enjoy the blue skies and hopefully dry rock. Eventually the food settled, so whilst deciding where to go I warmed up a little in the woody with Thomas, 4 year old champion of the woody. Luckily I didn’t get sucked in to trying to out do him, which would have ended in tears (mine), but I did get ready to start pulling. The skin on my right index finger was still thin from the pocket of Fata Morgana, so I was trying to take that into consideration with my choice of venue. I got very psyched for trying Londinium, 8A, but the walk in was a bit long for a brief evening session. Hip Hop, 8A, is close by and it’s something that is on the “to try” list but I wasn’t convinced it was the best choice. I felt like I needed to go somewhere and do SOMETHING. It wasn’t important what it was, any 7C or harder would do, just to keep the ball rolling. Success feeds on itself, and it always leads to more success. Likewise constant failure leads to a mentality of failure, which is sadly very evident in some climbers. With all that in mind I took the risk of going back to Fata Morgana. I knew I would only be able to have a couple of goes due to very think skin, but decided I could probably do it, and I really wanted a burn on Satan i Helvete. I drove up there, appreciate the plentiful bluebells springing into life all around the forest, and proceeded to get involved. Step 1. Set up Camera. Step 2. Boots and Chalk. Step 3. Climb the boulder problem. It didn’t go exactly like that… On my first go I missed the pocket (amateur!). On my second go I hit the pocket, moved my left hand up, set up to go for the jug but could feel my right hand creeping. I didn’t dare jump with my left hand because I knew my right hand would rip and I would probably hurt myself again. I hung there for far too long deciding what to do then I just freestyled and threw for the jug with my right hand. I’ve never, ever, tried the move like that because a. it’s harder and b. it’s harder. Sure enough, I hit the jug but not convincengly enough to stay on. I was pretty shocked I could even throw up with my right arm! Anyway, I was still on the ground and not at the top. Why? That’s all I could think. A quick change of angle for the camera and I had another go. This time I reached the move for the jug, felt like I was going to rip off, but didn’t care. I had to succeed. I launched and hit the jug with an internal sigh of relief, which was followed about 1 second later by an external sigh of relief. I walked to the top and had no outpouring of joy. I wasn’t even the slightest bit pleased, only relieved. I think it’s a little bit sad actually, to do a fairly good boulder problem and not be pleased. It took me a minute or two to figure out why I was relieved and not pleased. In my mind I was capable of this boulder problem a long time ago. To do it was not to answer the question of whether or not I could actually do it, which is normally the case. I had already done this problem in my heart, mind, and soul. Sounds ridiculous, but physically being stood on top was not the goal for me. I was also relieved because I know this boulder problem isn’t a real test for me. You could argue that it clearly was a test because I fell off a handful of times (in the last few days), but I would disagree in a certain way. Afterwards I came down (mentally and physically), replaced the pads, and tried Satan I Helvete. What a boulder problem! It’s short, powerful, and poses a very serious challenge to me. I don’t know if I can do it and it’s not exactly my style (and I hate that concept of style!) but I’m motivated for it. In these days of 16-18C temperatures, I think you just have to redefine where you climb, what you climb, and the time you climb.

I’m feeling positive about the closing stages of the trip, but my heart and soul have already moved on in a way. I don’t know where they’ve moved on to, but I hope that my body catches up soon, and psyche levels collide in a phenomenal outpouring of power!