After the appalling state of affairs during session 1 I didn’t want to go back to Ammagamma any time soon. I knew what had to be done: I needed to learn to climb again and get strong. I needed to do them both and I needed to do them very, very quickly.
Fortunately each day of climbing allowed me to make rapid progress. The guns were there, they were just siezed up. Every day I would feel a bit better on the rock and once the weather flipped on Day 10 I began to remember what friction and slopers should feel like. I was starting to do V9′s in a couple of tries and I’d done a couple of V11′s so on day 21 I made the second pilgrimage up to Ammagamma.
I arrived up there only to find I didn’t have a brush. What a punter. The 50 minute walk back to the car wasn’t an option so I just did what I could and thwacked the holds with my t-shirt. It didn’t really work. The lack of brush was perhaps a reflection of my mental state. I was missing vital ingredients of success. I spent the whole session trying the jump move until I was too tired to have meaningful goes at which point I switched to the other start moves. The very first moves felt awkward and difficult, I felt like a saggy sack of spuds, not a condom full of walnuts. Trying the move my hand was touching the hold but my bum was way too far out. In fact, I think my feet were touching the ground before my hand touched the hold. I was barely tickling the hold. More drowning than waving.
The foot was faster than the hand
Mentally the session was useless. I didn’t make any physical or mental breakthroughs. I didn’t find any crucial beta, I just thrashed myself on the move without making any forward or upward progress. I left disappointed and a little confused. Was I still not climbing well? Did I still not have the required power? Or was my mental approach still wrong? I had many questions and no answers. Day 21 represented a good chunk of our trip so to feel so far away from success after so long wasn’t great.